23/07/2009
Breakfast was a huge pot of coffee and a (hollow) bread roll with butter & jam, really appreciated the coffee. First thing to do was to pick up a day-pass for Metro and then head out to San Giovanni and the market. Lots of stuff to look at, scarves, T shirts, sunglasses, jewelry etc. and picked up some things to take home. Around the corner was the Basilica of St John Lateran (Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano) which was a surprise and nearly as spectacular as St. Peter’s. Apparently it’s the first among the four major basilicas in Rome and worth the visit. The day was warming up quickly so when walking around we were on the lookout for shade and cool fountains…
Decided to take the metro around the city to Ottaviano station to be closer to Vatican City and St Peters. Things have changed around this famous church since we were last here in October 1983. The buildings are all the same and while there were a lot more people around because it’s summer, there are long queues because everyone has to have their bag scanned on the way in to see the papal basilica. Being even bigger (holding 60,000 people) than the cathedral in Milan, it’s an impressive building with the contribution of some famous artists helping to decorate it appropriately.
Getting hungry so we wandered back to the Castroni Cafe (with an amazing deli with a huge range of goodies) for lunch of focaccia & coffee. Re-energised (after a stint in the airconditioning) we walked towards the Castel Sant’ Angelo and crossed the river near Piazza Coronari to check out Via del Coronari (apparently some nice antique shops etc.). Needed to cool down so ducked into an ice cream shop and found out that it was 40 degrees inside the shop!
Nice to wander the streets (in the shade) taking our time and stopping at taps to cool down and fill up the water bottle. During our trip we kept seeing people buying bulk (12 x 1.5 litre bottles wrapped in plastic) water and wondered why. Most of the water from the fountains and taps is potable (there are signs if it isn’t) so it seems the bottled water market is alive and well. It’s easy to understand why there as so many fountains, it’s aesthetic of course, but in summer you need the water to be available. We wandered through the Piazza Navona (ducking into the Church of Nostra Signora del Sacro Cuore) and then the Campo de Fiori (some more ice cream) and the Piazza Farnese behind it with its huge ‘bathtub’ fountains.
Then along another street know for its shops, the Via del Bacnchi Vecchi and actually found some coffee pots, but they weren’t antique. Popped into a couple of galleries and had a chat with a shop owner who lamented the GFC and lack of American tourist with their money. Came across an elderly guy (carefully) trimming a Bougainvillea before catching a bus heading back to Stazione Termini & then metro back to our room to rest up & have a cold shower… Had something to eat in our room before heading out to see the Trevi Fountain (only a few minutes away) around 8:30 pm. It was crowded! Heaps of people out enjoying the balmy evening. I thought so many people might spoil the atmosphere, but it was actually quite fun – everyone happy and having a good time, taking photos, tossing coins & eating ice cream.
Then we started heading home via the Piazza di Spagna at the bottom of the Spanish Steps with the fountain that looks like a boat. Then walked to the Piazza del Popolo along Via Margutta which has some nice shops, galleries, hotels and old homes. Went to catch the metro home but Colin, always one to make a quick decision, jumped into the train as the doors beeped and slammed shut, leaving Wendy on the platform (at 10:00 at night with some riff-raff lurking about up stairs…). I was stuck on the train and feeling rather helpless, so said a little prayer and got off at the correct stop and waited in hope for Wendy to appear on the next train. Had to wait the 5 minutes before we were reunited with some laughter and lots of humble apologies from me… Back at the Convent before curfew and feeling happy after a big (but very pleasant and satisfying) day out in the hot summer sun. Packed the bags for the final leg home – have the big backpack with 20kg & one of our carry-ons at 16kg to check-in, and then one carry-on of about 8kgs and our day packs…should work. Slept like a baby.