On arriving in Lyon we were met at the station by son Asher laden with a bag of supplies including coffee pot and coffee as well as a map of the city and a supply of metro tickets. Asher had to rush off to open the bar where he works, so we arranged to meet him there later. Asher’s presence in Lyon has been the major shaping factor of our trip and now we have the chance to see something of the place that he has lived in since January. It is so difficult to conceptualise what it is like to live in a different place, so this entry will try to capture some of the textures, particularly so Asher’s brothers can get a sense of where their sibling has been living for most of 2009. We settled into our fifth floor inner city apartment after being warmly welcomed by Annick and Pierre-Claude, the owners. We were shown the ropes of protecting ourselves from the riff raff with lock after lock and security codes. A few minutes to unpack and out the door to find Asher’s workplace – Le Maori Cafe.
Surprisingly it had been raining in Lyon all day but had stopped just before our train arrived. The sky was still very dark and threatening and the air deliciously cool to us – we have been exceptionally hot and sweaty for weeks now! It was about 8.30 in the evening when we set out and the light was magic. First out our mega door – check out the hinges and the lock!
Then left just a few metres to stand on the edge of a square and stand in front of a very impressive modern Opera building with sounds of live jazz filling the square. A fountain in one corner and trolley busses bending around the streets. Around another corner and past Asher’s house – no 8 and a few more metres and we are in another huge square with the Town Hall, and an amazingly ‘living’ fountain with horses captured in frenetic motion with water pouring around them and breath pouring from iron nostrils in steamy clouds. A sight to see! Across the square which was not very busy but beautifully lit under the evening sky. Massive proportions in width, breadth and heights. Out of this square and following a street to the river.
There are two rivers running through this town – the Rhone and the Soane. We walked to the Soane and along it for a little way before crossing on a footbridge. The river is wide and lined with beautiful buildings which has a hint of Amsterdam an Budapest about it. The evening light was great at highlighting the luminous pastel shades and also silhouetting the city skyline against the rosy sky as the light faded.
After about twenty minutes slow walking we reached a hole in the wall which was Le Maori Bar. Asher and his colleague Licia we manning the fort waiting for customers. We had a drink and a hamburger with wedges – real comfort food! We saw the tiny kitchen where Asher has been slaving over a hot stove for his euros! The first few customers were Australian and a New Zealander so Asher’s English was most useful! His French has been developing out of sheer necessity and determination. Language really is a passport. We stayed for a while chatting with customers and making plans for the next day between Asher and Pippa’s work commitments. Walking home was crisp and cool and this time we saw all the city features in floodlit glory. The horses had gone to sleep – no water or steamy breath at night! Our fifth floor stone eyrie was warm and toasty when we stepped out of the slim-line elevator, and the bed was perfect! We have directions for the local croissant shop for the morning and our one coffee percolator! Yippee!
