We made up a little time over night and arrived in KL around 8 am and spent just under two hours at KLIA (no shopping at all) which was pleasant enough, and even managed to get in a little sleep (powernap) before boarding again for the last 7 hour leg home. Watched the ‘Echelon Conspiracy’ and half a doco on the history of the toilet to while away the time. Slept a little and watched the West Australian outback float by beneath us for hours & hours. Into Tulla on time and picked up some single malt on the way through duty free.

Our bags didn’t arrive (lost in Rome along with a couple of other people) so we had to register this and found out that they knew were they were and should arrive in Melbourne monday night. By then we had to tag onto the end of the customs que, but managed to get out in the cool, brisk air in about 1.5 hours. Reubs & Connie picked us up and we made it back to Geelong in time for the cutting of Matthew’s 21st birthday cake (a sweet rendition of Gumby).

It’s been a big 24 hours between Rome and our home, but we’re happy to be back and flaking into bed very early Sunday morning was lovely.

What a trip. We’re very thankful to be able to do this trip and that it all went well, without any major dramas or problems. Thanks for joining us (243 of you), and following along on our Europa 2009 summer tour. I hope your appetite’s been wetted for some travel of your own. To those who left them, thanks for leaving comments, much appreciated. I’ll be reflecting further on our adventures back at the regular blog, talk to you there.

PS. Our bags arrived safely a couple of days later.

Up fairly early Rome and back to Spanish Steps and the Trervi fountain early to see them before the crowds the crowds turned up. Nice to sit and enjoy a coffee & brioche (Italian version, which looked very much like a croissant) before heading back to the convent via the Piazza del Quirinale (where the president lives), a couple of delightful small churches, and the San Carlo Quattro Fontane.

Check-in at the airport took way too long (some problems with over booking?) and then we had an agonising wait in the security check line as they had set the metal detectors to pick up the tiniest thing, so everyone was getting checked… We jumped the que a little explaining to people that our flight was leaving in 15 minutes an managed to get through a little quicker. So rather than a relaxed coffee and stroll through the duty free, we waited in queues for 1.5 hours! We were still delayed for take-off by 30 minutes as there were 15 others still trapped somewhere in the Italian ‘efficiency’…

Once on board (in row 12 just behind where all the [slightly noisy] babies get put) we had 12 hours to get acquainted with the interior of the Boeing 777. After some lunch/dinner I watched ‘Duplicity’ (not bad, starring Clooney & Roberts), read for a bit and then tried to sleep while listening to some chill music but only managed to get a couple of short naps. Watched the sunrise on our way into KL.

Breakfast was a huge pot of coffee and a (hollow) bread roll with butter & jam, really appreciated the coffee. First thing to do was to pick up a day-pass for Metro and then head out to San Giovanni and the market. Lots of stuff to look at, scarves, T shirts, sunglasses, jewelry etc. and picked up some things to take home. Around the corner was the Basilica of St John Lateran (Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano) which was a surprise and nearly as spectacular as St. Peter’s. Apparently it’s the first among the four major basilicas in Rome and worth the visit. The day was warming up quickly so when walking around we were on the lookout for shade and cool fountains…

Decided to take the metro around the city to Ottaviano station to be closer to Vatican City and St Peters. Things have changed around this famous church since we were last here in October 1983. The buildings are all the same and while there were a lot more people around because it’s summer, there are long queues because everyone has to have their bag scanned on the way in to see the papal basilica. Being even bigger (holding 60,000 people) than the cathedral in Milan, it’s an impressive building with the contribution of some famous artists helping to decorate it appropriately.

Getting hungry so we wandered back to the Castroni Cafe (with an amazing deli with a huge range of goodies) for lunch of focaccia & coffee. Re-energised (after a stint in the airconditioning) we walked towards the Castel Sant’ Angelo and crossed the river near Piazza Coronari to check out Via del Coronari (apparently some nice antique shops etc.). Needed to cool down so ducked into an ice cream shop and found out that it was 40 degrees inside the shop!

Nice to wander the streets (in the shade) taking our time and stopping at taps to cool down and fill up the water bottle. During our trip we kept seeing people buying bulk (12 x 1.5 litre bottles wrapped in plastic) water and wondered why. Most of the water from the fountains and taps is potable (there are signs if it isn’t) so it seems the bottled water market is alive and well. It’s easy to understand why there as so many fountains, it’s aesthetic of course, but in summer you need the water to be available. We wandered through the Piazza Navona (ducking into the Church of Nostra Signora del Sacro Cuore) and then the Campo de Fiori (some more ice cream) and the Piazza Farnese behind it with its huge ‘bathtub’ fountains.

Then along another street know for its shops, the Via del Bacnchi Vecchi and actually found some coffee pots, but they weren’t antique. Popped into a couple of galleries and had a chat with a shop owner who lamented the GFC and lack of American tourist with their money. Came across an elderly guy (carefully) trimming a Bougainvillea before catching a bus heading back to Stazione Termini & then metro back to our room to rest up & have a cold shower… Had something to eat in our room before heading out to see the Trevi Fountain (only a few minutes away) around 8:30 pm. It was crowded! Heaps of people out enjoying the balmy evening. I thought so many people might spoil the atmosphere, but it was actually quite fun – everyone happy and having a good time, taking photos, tossing coins & eating ice cream.

Then we started heading home via the Piazza di Spagna at the bottom of the Spanish Steps with the fountain that looks like a boat. Then walked to the Piazza del Popolo along Via Margutta which has some nice shops, galleries, hotels and old homes. Went to catch the metro home but Colin, always one to make a quick decision, jumped into the train as the doors beeped and slammed shut, leaving Wendy on the platform (at 10:00 at night with some riff-raff lurking about up stairs…). I was stuck on the train and feeling rather helpless, so said a little prayer and got off at the correct stop and waited in hope for Wendy to appear on the next train. Had to wait the 5 minutes before we were reunited with some laughter and lots of humble apologies from me… Back at the Convent before curfew and feeling happy after a big (but very pleasant and satisfying) day out in the hot summer sun. Packed the bags for the final leg home – have the big backpack with 20kg & one of our carry-ons at 16kg to check-in, and then one carry-on of about 8kgs and our day packs…should work. Slept like a baby.

Our last day in Lyon and we packed the bags before heading of to the Museum of Deportation (it’s rather old and the curation badly need updating) but interesting none-the-less. Back to catch up with Asher & Pippa for a farewell morning tea with nice pastries in courtyard of Museum Beaux Arts. Nice gardens with Rodin sculptures and a fountain.

At the alloted time we packed up picked up the bags and caught the metro out to the bus stop. Said Au revoir to the youngsters and headed out to the airport. Check in went OK and we had time to have some lunch, but there was a delay with Easyjet that set us back an hour and a half. We had to stand for over 30 minutes (like cattle) waiting between the boarding pass check and the gate! Anyway arrived in Rome safely and caught a bus into town for 4 Euros, a bargain considering I’d paid 8 on the plane! Dang, just when I try and get smart to make things easier, the bus company has a special deal on & didn’t tell Easyjet.

Rome was 10 degrees hotter than Lyon so the bus took a while to cool down and then we decided to walk from the Central Railway station to the accommodation. I had the big pack on and warmed up quite nicely. Did enjoy walking past a sculpture shop that had everything you could want to set up your own Roman Villa. We freshened up at the Convent Le Suore di Lourdes (where we’d booked a room with ensuite) and had a little rest before going for a walk to Spanish Steps (600 meters up the road – Via Sistina) and had a basic meal at a family run restaurant. Then wandered back to Barberini Square to check out the Triton Fountain and raced back to the Covent with 5 minutes to spare at 10:25 as there’s a curfew and they lock the door at 10:30.

We had agreed to take some stuff back for Ash & Pippa, so sorted out how we were going to add a backpack to our luggage. I had to log into Easyjet and add the check-in luggage and cough up $20, but we got that sorted so I felt a lot better for knowing how it was going to work. We could take our (now slightly heavier) carry-on luggage on Easyjet and then later in Rome we can pack one of those full, and check that with Malaysian to just have one lighter piece of carry-on. I’d just have to work out how to lug the 20 kg pack around Rome… We went out to the Textile Museum (which was a little disappointing due to poor curation, and the paper dresses exhibition had already finished) & also visited the Decorative Arts Museum which was set up in a palace (old house). This was better, with some great things to see, but not a lot of English to read… Back to our apartment for some scrambled eggs & baguette and then out with Ash & Pippa for a little shopping trip (past another mural) for some souvenirs & gifts to take home.

We had to rush back to have a drinks with our hosts Pierre Claude & Anneick and enjoyed our broken English/French conversation. They are an older couple who have moved into the city and rent out a small apartment (bedroom, with table & small kitchen & ensuite) for some pocket money. Very pleasant. Then we had to leave to ride out to the ‘L’est Brasserie’ (L’Est is one of Paul Bocuse bistros set in the old Brotteaux train station east of Lyon and has a train themed decor ) where we had a very nice dinner. I thought while in France… so I tried some escargo & even finished off with a souffle. Yum!

Then it was a cycle back into the city without lights or helmets and we rode to one of Pippa’s work places which was a bar that has 15 beers on tap and hundreds in bottles. the guys behind the bar ask what sort of beer you like and bring out a few to taste before you settle on one. By the time we’d decided on our 4 drinks only two looked like beer as I knew it, and they all came with their own brand of coaster and glass. Great fun and we got to try some different tasting beer. Back home late, (once again) and tomorrow we say goodbye…

Up early to catch the bus to the train station and up to Annecy. On the way to the station in the bus, Asher realised he’d forgot his student card (25% discount) which he’d have to present, so a quick call to Pippa (to get her out of bed) and asked if she could drop it off at the train station. We tried to get the booked tickets out of the machine but no go, so had to go to the ticket counter which didn’t open till 8:30 and we were leaving at 8:40! So, some slight panicing just as Pippa turned up on her bike! (her reward for coming down was to find 5 Euros on her way back out of the station!) The ticket people couldn’t get the printer working, I went off to get a few coffees, the ticket lady directed to wrong platform, but somehow we made it onto the train!

A pleasant trip on the train and after arriving, a quick visit to the tourist office for a map and then Ash took us on a walking tour of the old part of the city. Enjoyed how the town has a couple of canals and buildings/cafes along the water. Wandered for a couple of hours and then picked up some bread to have with our bbq chicken down near the lake.

Beautiful! Very picturesque, with mountains all around, boats on the lake, paddle boats for hire. bicycles, a private beach (10 Euros) where you had access to facilities, minigolf, water slides etc.) and the hotel/casino & gardens, and the public beach which was very busy. Lots of people lying in the sun and spread out from the water across the grass, right up to the footpath. It all looked a little crazy with all this tanning flesh and bodies everywhere – we had to walk between people’s legs to get through!.

In a couple of days they will be holding a time trial for the Tour de france so things were starting to be set up with barriers and power cables etc. We thought we might catch a bus around the lake a little to visit a chateau (the boat cost 15 Euros and did a whole lap of the lake which we didn’t want to do) so we walked a for a bit but couldn’t find a bus. The train went back a different way so nice to see some different scenery and much easier than hiring a car (which we’d contemplated but it got too difficult & expensive).

Sunday and we headed out to ‘Le Puce’ (the big Flea market) out of town a little, so caught the metro and hoped to catch a bus the rest of the way, but were told by Veronica (a Spanish girl we met) that there was only one bus an hour, se we walked and chatted (she’s working in Lyon translating old french texts into Spanish) After a 40 minute walk we wandered around the market for a couple of hours. It had a permanent section with stall holders all set up with their wares, as well as a car park full of car-boot sellers. We found some things that were interesting (weaving machine bobbins, old cheese knife, postcard printing plates, and an iron pinecone (finial) All a bit of fun, but no old coffee pots.

We ended up catching a bus back to the metro and then found our way to the vege market in Croix Ruse. We scored some free apricots & a melon as things were winding up and old & damaged fruit was being discarded. Also bought a bbq chicken for a picnic tomorrow.

Ash & Pippa rendezvoused with us and after some fruit we wandered around the area checking out the huge building mural (painted on a flat building facade but done to look 3D) dedicated to the local weavers (know as Canut – with a silent T). Amazing! Slowly walked our way down (stopping at the leftovers of a Roman amphitheatre) before ending up back in the square near the City Hall (Hotel de Ville). There’s a fountain there with horses leaping out of it and when the water’s on, a fine mist comes out of their nostrils. Cool! (designed by the guy who did the Statue of Liberty).

Up to the apartment for a coffee and organised a trip for tomorrow. Then out on the bikes (yep we had four bikes) for a ride to the gardens with huge ornate gates, which were wonderful. they are huge and feature a rose garden, paths, lake, and a zoo in which we saw deer, tortoises, porcupines, and meerkats. Found a park bench to sit on while we had a cup of tea (from the thermos) and then rode the bikes back to the river and along the water side. A very nice riverside with playgrounds for kids, swimming pools, and restaurant barges tied up alongside the boulevard.

Had fun struggling with the bikes back up in the lift to the apartment (one with one person at a time – unless your Ash & Pippa who can both fit in with their racing bikes – but at a squeeze) and decided to have dinner (set menu for 10:50 Euros each) at 203 (a small cafe/pub with an interesting history that’s got to do with smoking/or not) and went to bed late (again).

(Saturday) A broken sleep last night because of the revelling that went on till the early hours. I think because of the way the buildings and streets reflect the noise from the street, it echoes around and seems much louder (and closer) than it is, and while the windows keep a bit of it out, you can still here some of it. Anyway, went for a walk across the Rhone to check out the bridges before meeting up with Ash & Pippa. We then picked up some food at the market before having a great walk through the old town on the other side of the Saone (river) visiting the Cathedral of St. Jean with its astronomical clock playing a tune on its bells at 2:00 while we were there, and also ducked into the treasury with its tapestries, liturgical vestments and religous gold & sliver ware.

Walking the old cobble streets we came across a small shop where a guy was using an old weaving loom to make velour and the method and tools he was using were dated from the Renaissance. Cool, great to see the old traditional methods still being used. Then we climbed (a long way) up to the Roman amphitheatre (amazing, with people setting up for a concert) and had a picnic of cheese, olives & baguette before heading on to the Notre Dame de Vourviere with it’s elaborate ceiling domes and mosaics pictures on the walls (more amazing, and so ornate inside it’s just about over the top – but marvelous anyway…). Outside there were great views across the two rivers and the city. Walked back down via a VERY long flight of stairs (600 steps maybe?). Our legs were quivering before we go to the bottom!

We then some some time deciding what to do tomorrow – maybe try and find a market. So, went online and looked for the local second hand markets. Found one, and worked out how to get there by metro & bus. Pippa & Ash had to work so we went home via the MonoPrix and found some nachos, cheese & sauce for a quick meal before crashing into bed once again – we have not had any problems with sleeping even though the quality of beds has varied – we’ve just been too tired to care/notice.

An exciting day today, will meet up with Ash in Lyon tonight after seeing him off to Europe earlier in the year. We packed up, checked out, and dropped the luggage off at the railway station. Put it in a locker (after getting it scanned) to hold it till we were ready to head out to the TGV station (later in the day) and then headed straight across the river to Villeneuve-les-Avignon (a charming medieval village, that was the city of cardinals in the XIVth century) on bus no. 11. Wandered into the old town and visited the Collegiale church and its cloister before chilling in the square and enjoying some coffee & pastries (we’re hoping all the walking we’re doing is keeping the weight gaining capabilities of the food at bay). Walked into, but didn’t visit the Chartreuse Notre-Dame-du-val-de-Benediction (Carthusian Monastery), and then wandered to the tower Fort Saint-Andre (but didn’t pay to visit).

Caught the bus back into Avignon, but got off early and walked the last bit across the second bridge, good to see the town from that view point. Decided to visit Pont d’Avignon (Pont St-Benezet) the medieval bridge (or what’s left of it) that has had an interesting history. Found the audio guides useful, but a little constrained with how you could use them. You’re sort of captive to what they want to tell you and you need to accept the context that they provide. I’ve become very interested in curations (such as this, or in museums and art galleries) as they need some careful consideration of the potential audience/s. A little like education – just where do you pitch things, and what alternatives or opportunities do you provide the recipient. A good curation can make a huge difference to the experience and unfortunately I don’t come across many really good ones…

Anyway, then it was up through the wall to the gardens of the Palace of the Popes, another coffee and then into the palace along with LOTS of other tourists. Another audio guide but this one was even worse! Difficult to find and match the commentary with the rooms/points of interest, but it was still impressive. The leaders of the church sure did it in style back in the good old days. The scale of things is amazing, huge buildings, the Great Chapel, all the rooms (with their special purposes, like counting all the money), the Cloister etc. and all fairly sumptuous with the Courtyard of Honour filled with seating for performances later in the week. Then a quick visit to the Cathedral (with the tomb of a pope) and wandered back through town to find a church that wasn’t open. Grabbed some food for on the train, picked up bags and headed out to the TGV – all the connections went so smoothly we ended up with a 40 minute wait in the impressive Avignon TGV station.

Into Lyon a little late but great to meet Ash at the station (he’d packed a bag for us with some food for the fridge in the apartment and a bunch of public transport tickets). He took us to the apartment and then headed off to work while we settled in and freshened up. We then wandered through town and along the river (as the sun set with some spectacular clouds) to Le Maori Bar (which has a Facebook group) to catch up with Ash and have a hamburger and a beer (or two). Met an Aussie & a New Zealander who wandered past and dropped in for a drink. Wendy’s written the next post to expand on our arrival in Lyon.

Surprisingly it had been raining in Lyon all day but had stopped just before our train arrived. The sky was still very dark and threatening and the air deliciously cool to us – we have been exceptionally hot and sweaty for weeks now! It was about 8.30 in the evening when we set out and the light was magic. First out our mega door – check out the hinges and the lock!

Then left just a few metres to stand on the edge of a square and stand in front of a very impressive modern Opera building with sounds of live jazz filling the square. A fountain in one corner and trolley busses bending around the streets. Around another corner and past Asher’s house – no 8 and a few more metres and we are in another huge square with the Town Hall, and an amazingly ‘living’ fountain with horses captured in frenetic motion with water pouring around them and breath pouring from iron nostrils in steamy clouds. A sight to see! Across the square which was not very busy but beautifully lit under the evening sky. Massive proportions in width, breadth and heights. Out of this square and following a street to the river.

There are two rivers running through this town – the Rhone and the Soane. We walked to the Soane and along it for a little way before crossing on a footbridge. The river is wide and lined with beautiful buildings which has a hint of Amsterdam an Budapest about it. The evening light was great at highlighting the luminous pastel shades and also silhouetting the city skyline against the rosy sky as the light faded.

After about twenty minutes slow walking we reached a hole in the wall which was Le Maori Bar. Asher and his colleague Licia we manning the fort waiting for customers. We had a drink and a hamburger with wedges – real comfort food! We saw the tiny kitchen where Asher has been slaving over a hot stove for his euros! The first few customers were Australian and a New Zealander so Asher’s English was most useful! His French has been developing out of sheer necessity and determination. Language really is a passport. We stayed for a while chatting with customers and making plans for the next day between Asher and Pippa’s work commitments. Walking home was crisp and cool and this time we saw all the city features in floodlit glory. The horses had gone to sleep – no water or steamy breath at night! Our fifth floor stone eyrie was warm and toasty when we stepped out of the slim-line elevator, and the bed was perfect! We have directions for the local croissant shop for the morning and our one coffee percolator! Yippee!